The Anatomy of a Classic: Nike Dunk vs Nike SB Dunk

by Chris Harewood

The world of fashion is fickle in its ways. It ebbs and flows, oftentimes unpredictably. What was previously “out” and “dated” could very well become “in” and “trendy”. Those who follow the beat of their own drum and pay no intention to the current trends of the fashion world don’t worry about these things, but those attempting to be plugged in to what’s hot could quickly find their heads spinning.

The Nike Dunk, launching in 1985, has had an interesting lifespan. Originally intended to be a college school color-themed sneaker made for playing basketball, the shoe was quickly outdone by other models in terms of tech. The dunk eventually became a casual shoe worn for fashion purposes and not athletics.

Entering 2002, seventeen years after its original release, the Nike SB Dunk exploded onto the scene and took the streetwear and skateboard world by storm. Featuring breathtaking colorways with some of the best storytelling in all of footwear, they are considered an essential part of sneaker history.

However, lethargy began to kick in during the early 2010s, and the dunk – both original and SB – found themselves sitting at local outsets for half price. Energetic and fun colorways became a thing of the past, and the storytelling all but stopped. For years, dunks were declared “dead”.

Fast forward to present day, and the last five years has seen a massive resurgence in popularity for dunks. You can’t step outside your house without seeing a pair on feet. Restocks of the “Panda” dunk colorway happen frequently. The resale value for some of the more rare dunks can approach thousands of dollars.

Sneakers are more popular than ever before, and dunks are thriving as the premiere trendy sneaker for the world’s biggest sneaker brand. However, while there are more “sneakerheads” now than in the past, many lack knowledge on some of the basics. It certainly doesn’t help that dunks, whether the original style or SB, are generally just called “dunks” these days, making it easy to understand why many don’t bother to differentiate the two.

That’s where we at I come in. In this article, we’re going to break down the key differences between a Nike Dunk and a Nike SB Dunk so that you can be fully informed when purchasing your sneakers. Without further ado, let’s get started.

Performance/Intent of Use

While the Dunk was a basketball sneaker, the SB Dunk is not. The “SB” stands for Skateboarding, meaning all the alterations made to the shoe are in order for it to be a sneaker optimized for those looking to hit the rails, ramps, and halfpipes at their local skatepark.

It’s also relevant to mention, as I’m sure most of you reading this know, that the dunk comes primarily as a lowtop, high top or mid top, though the performance across all three are largely the same regardless of cut.

Padding

The most striking visual difference between the Dunk and SB Dunk is definitely the padding. The SB Dunk is simply a much thicker-bodied sneaker. This is most evident with its classic fat tongue. This padding is designed to support the feet of skateboarders.

Alternatively, the regular Dunk is a sleeker looking shoe with a thinner tongue.

Zoom Air Cushion

While the regular Dunk has basic insole cushioning, the SB Dunk features a more advanced Zoom Air unit at the bottom of the insole’s heel. The purpose of this is for shock absorption – a must for a skateboarder.

Laces

Alongside its fat tongue, the SB Dunk’s chunky laces are another iconic feature of the sneaker, whereas regular dunks are traditional and thin. The SB’s thicker laces are for higher durability when skating.

Additionally, the SB Dunk has a flap on the bottom two rows of lace holes where you have the option to peel it open and loop your laces through once (to hide the lace) or twice.

Outsole

While the outsole of a regular Dunk is similar to that of an Air Jordan 1 or Air Force 1, the SB Dunk outsole treading is more detailed to provide better gripping to surfaces (IE: a skateboard)

Summary

Regardless of which style you prefer, the Dunk is arguably the most prominent sneaker in the world right now and the definition of what’s trending. Whether you’re looking to go skateboarding or just take a casual walk through the city, you’ll now easily be able to tell Dunk styles with a quick glance.